A second home that stands empty through the winter fails in a predictable way: water. A pipe freezes, splits, and then thaws into a house nobody is in. Winterizing is the routine that stops that, and it comes down to three decisions made before you lock the door: keep enough heat on, or drain the water out; make sure someone will notice if something goes wrong; and check that your insurance still covers a house in that state. Everything else on the checklist below serves one of those three.
This guide is written for owners of a house that will be empty for weeks or months between now and spring, from a ski chalet to a summer house on a northern coast. For the full annual cost of running a property you are often away from, see what a trophy property costs per year.
Why empty houses flood in winter
Water expands as it freezes. In a pipe that expansion builds pressure until something gives, and the leak only shows when the ice melts. In an occupied house someone hears it within minutes. In an empty one it can run for days.
Pipes do not freeze the moment the thermometer reaches zero. AAA, summarising Consumer Reports, notes that pipes generally begin to freeze below 20°F (about -7°C), but that uninsulated pipes in uninsulated spaces can freeze at higher temperatures. The pipes at risk are the ones you rarely see: in lofts and attics, crawl spaces, garages, exterior walls and unheated outbuildings.
The cost is not small. Zurich UK, citing the Association of British Insurers, reported £987 million of escape-of-water claims in 2022, up 15% on 2021, about £2.7 million a day, and said the average cost of repairing escape-of-water damage rose from £8,663 in 2021 to £12,791 in 2022. Those are 2022 figures for all homes, not a quote for yours, but they show why insurers care about this one risk more than almost any other.
Decision one: heat on, or water off
There are two ways to protect the plumbing, and an empty house needs one of them, sometimes both.
| Approach | What it involves | Guidance cited | Main risk |
|---|---|---|---|
| Keep low heat on | Thermostat set and left at a steady minimum all winter | IBHS: at or above 55°F (about 13°C), even when away; Zurich UK: at least 10°C at all times | A boiler failure or power cut in a cold spell leaves the house unheated |
| Drain down | Main water supply off, plumbing drained | IBHS: consider it for long absences in prolonged freezing weather; Zurich UK: an unoccupied property may need pipes, tanks and heating drained and the supply disconnected | Done badly, water is left in traps, low points and appliances |
Keeping heat on
AAA cites the Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety (IBHS) recommending a steady thermostat setting at or above 55°F, even when you are away. Zurich UK advises setting heating to at least 10°C and keeping it there. Lycetts, a UK insurance broker, gives the same 10°C minimum and adds a warning worth repeating: "there are no guarantees". Heat protects the pipes only while it runs, so this approach depends on the boiler, the fuel supply and the electricity all lasting the winter.
Draining down
For a long absence in a cold climate, draining is the more certain protection, because there is nothing left in the pipes to freeze. It is also a job to have done properly: water left in traps, low points, the water heater or appliance connections can still freeze. A sensible approach is to have a plumber drain the house at the end of the season and recommission it at the start of the next. If the heating system itself runs on water, ask the same plumber whether it should be drained or protected with antifreeze, rather than guessing.
Either way
- Insulate exposed pipes in lofts, crawl spaces, garages and exterior walls, using insulation or plumbing-approved heat tape (IBHS, via AAA).
- Seal gaps around windows, doors and where pipes or wires enter the house.
- Disconnect and drain garden hoses; where outdoor taps are not frost-free, shut them off and insulate them.
- Know where the stopcock is and test it. Zurich UK suggests testing it twice a year, and it is the first thing anyone checking the house needs to find.
- Service the boiler before you leave rather than after a failure. Zurich UK recommends servicing heating appliances annually.
Decision two: make sure someone will notice
An empty house cannot report its own problems, so build in two ways of finding out: technology and a person.
Sensors and remote control. A temperature sensor that alerts your phone when the house drops below a set point, a leak sensor under the water heater and sinks, and a way to check or adjust the heating remotely turn a burst pipe found weeks later into one found the same day. Zurich UK suggests considering leak detection systems. None of this replaces heat or draining; it tells you when they have failed. Our guide to smart home technology for large homes covers what is worth wiring in permanently.
Power. Remote monitoring and a heating system both depend on electricity. In a place where winter storms cut power, a backup supply for the router, the sensors and the boiler controls keeps you informed through an outage, and an alert when the power drops tells you to send someone round.
A person. Arrange for someone to visit on a schedule, with keys, the stopcock location, the boiler instructions and your contact details. Agree in advance what they do if they find a problem and who they call. A neighbour, a caretaker or a property manager all work; what matters is that the visit actually happens, and that it is written down, because your insurer may ask.
Decision three: check your insurance before you lock the door
This is the decision owners skip, and it is the one that decides whether a burst pipe is a claim or a bill.
- Unoccupancy terms. Many home policies limit cover once a house has been unoccupied for a set period, or attach conditions to it. AAA notes that coverage may be limited or excluded for vacant or unoccupied homes if required precautions were not taken, and that not maintaining adequate heat, or leaving a home vacant without required precautions such as shutting off the water, are common reasons claims are refused.
- Heating conditions. Lycetts notes that some policies include a heating temperature condition, which may require heating to be set to a specified level for cover to apply.
- What "covered" means. Standard policies generally cover sudden and accidental water damage from a burst pipe, according to AAA, but the repair of the pipe itself may be treated differently. Lycetts notes that repairing the pipe can be excluded in some cases, such as gradual deterioration from age.
Read your policy's wording on unoccupancy, heating and escape of water, then ask your broker or insurer in writing: how long can the house be empty, what do you require while it is, and does draining down satisfy that requirement. Keep the answer with your records of visits and services.
The checklist
Before you leave:
- Service the boiler and confirm the fuel supply will last the winter.
- Decide: low heat on (and at what setting), drained down, or both, in line with your policy.
- Insulate exposed pipes; drain and shut off outside taps; disconnect hoses.
- Find and test the stopcock; label it for whoever visits.
- Fit temperature and leak sensors and test the alerts on your phone.
- Arrange backup power for the router and controls if outages are common.
- Clear gutters and downpipes so meltwater can drain.
- Empty the fridge, unplug what does not need power, and leave interior doors open so heat circulates.
- Arrange visits, in writing, with instructions and a contact list.
- Confirm your insurer's unoccupancy and heating conditions in writing.
During the winter:
- Watch the temperature alerts, and act on the first one.
- After a severe cold spell or storm, ask for an extra visit rather than waiting for the scheduled one.
- Keep a short log of visits and any problems found.
When you return or reopen in spring:
- Turn the water on slowly and check for leaks before leaving the house unattended.
- Look at ceilings below bathrooms and in the loft for stains.
- Run every tap, and check outdoor taps once the frost risk has passed.
When a low-maintenance house is the better answer
Every item above is a cost of owning a house you are often away from. Some properties need far fewer of them: a flat in a managed building with a caretaker, a house with systems designed for remote management, or one where a property manager handles the season for you. If winterizing is becoming a project every autumn, read why a low-maintenance property is worth more than a cheap one before your next purchase, and the cost of staffing a trophy estate for what full-time cover involves.
Frequently asked questions
What temperature should I leave my second home at in winter?
Guidance differs by source. AAA cites the IBHS recommending a steady setting at or above 55°F (about 13°C), even when away; Zurich UK and the broker Lycetts give a minimum of 10°C. Your insurer's policy may set its own figure, and that is the one that matters for a claim.
Should I turn the water off in an empty house over winter?
For long absences in prolonged freezing weather, the IBHS, cited by AAA, suggests considering shutting off the main supply and draining the plumbing, and Zurich UK notes an unoccupied property may need pipes, tanks and heating drained. Check what your policy requires, and have the drain-down done properly so no water is left in traps and low points.
Does home insurance cover burst pipes in an empty house?
It depends on the policy. Standard policies generally cover sudden and accidental water damage, but cover can be limited or excluded for vacant homes where required precautions, such as adequate heat or shutting off the water, were not taken. Ask your insurer in writing.
How often should someone check an empty house in winter?
There is no single rule; your insurer may set one as a condition of cover. Agree a schedule in writing, and add an extra visit after any severe cold spell or storm.
Do smart sensors replace winterizing?
No. Temperature and leak sensors tell you when something has gone wrong, and remote heating control lets you respond, but they do not stop a pipe freezing. Use them alongside heat or draining, not instead.
